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When curating a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred establishments. Yet, tucked high among these food titans is a modest salonu located in a distant area of north London.

A Unexpected Accolade

This small Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential culinary publication. The honour has left the owners utterly shocked.

“I’m utterly shocked,” remarks a family member, referring to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their modest restaurant earning such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

The compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its former character. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” says the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the fare, and this restaurant more than excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in slowly. When the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for less than £25, equivalent experiences at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at fancy establishments. “I feel very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning beyond its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this gastronomic honour.